Branding the man: why men are the next frontier in fashion retail

Are Outlets and Discounters Killing Full Price Retailers?

October 30, 2009

Marshalls Department Stores

It’s been a banner year for outlet stores and malls. Not long ago, they were lonely outposts on a stretch of highway offering last season’s — or even a season from several year’s ago  — fashion collections for those starved to own at least one designer item. Once in awhile you found something you missed out on, or simply refused to pay full price for.

But all that has changed. Now not only are outlets getting closer to downtown shopping districts, but they’re offering this season’s fashion. On a recent trip to a Nordstrom Rack, I saw a pair of Ralph Lauren driving shoes that were still selling for full-price in a fancy downtown shoe store. Another visit to a Loehman’s prompted the discovery of several recent pieces from Yves Saint Laurent’s fall collection. Coincidence? Not at all.

Retailers, in their franticness to move merchandise, appear to be getting reckless in how they disperse their unsold or overstocked goods — to their own detriment. Shoppers now know that what they see at Barneys or Saks could potentially be found down the street at a discounter. Where once goods were held back before ever appearing in a discounter — if at all — now it’s a free-for-all. Discounters and outlet stores are enjoying their moment in the limelight. TJ Maxx and Marshall’s are each running television advertisements that boast of their unique access to current designer merchandise (click here to watch one example of TJ Maxx’s. Click here for Marshall’s — both are owned by the same parent company). That access is essentially blamed on how major retailers and designers have horribly miscalculated consumer demand, resulting in your “Shopportunity.”

Some retailers are unabashedly opening their own outlet stores and stocking it with whatever is not selling in their regular stores. Retailers like Kate Spade, Lucky Brand Jeans, Puma, and Juicy Couture have all jumped on the outlet train. Last year Saks Fifth Avenue launched a 24,400 square-foot “Off 5th” outlet in the Prime Outlets International Center in Orlando, Florida. Retail property managers are seeing outlets as an opportunity to fill holes otherwise left by mid-level brands. Indeed the outlet mall is having something of a heyday. Woodbury Common Premium Outlets in Central Valley New York has 220 outlet stores and 840,000 square feet, with a virtual laundry list of top brands, from Bottega Veneta to Valentino. Other brands at Woodbury like Helmut Lang and Judith Ripka took the pop-up approach , with mini-outlet shops opening for only a few months at a time.

The result being that consumers are not only learning to live with less in a down economy, but learning to pay less and get more for their money in terms of designer merchandise. While full price retailers shoot themselves in the foot, discounters are enjoying a boom in business that may last much longer than most people think. When the recession is over, will old habits die hard? Maybe… for a price.


The Future of Men’s Fashion: A Special Event at Barnes and Noble New York

October 19, 2009

american-fashion-menswear-313x217

Barnes and Noble’s 82nd and Broadway store will host a special event on “The New Frontier in Fashion”: A Conversation with Bertrand Pellegrin, author of Branding the Man (Allworth Press), Robert Bryan, author of American Fashion Menswear (Assouline), and Alexander Galan, partner in the fashion collective, Loden Dager.

Bryan was formerly the New York Times’ Men’s Fashion Editor. His new book, American Fashion Menswear, is a beautiful portrait of the best in men’s fashion and how the U.S. has created its own signature and an enduring style all its own. Loden Dager, the fashion collective which has received the coveted Ecco Domani Award, is one of the brightest and most wearable new brands on the market today. Like Spurr, their work combines classic tailoring with unexpected details and global themes. One of the collective’s founders, Alexander Galan, will join the discussion on why now more than ever, men are discovering the power and politics of fashion.

Men: The New Frontier in Fashion with Bertrand Pellegrin, Robert Bryan and Loden Dager’s Alexander Galan.

Wednesday November 04, 2009 7:00 PM

Barnes and Noble

82nd & Broadway

2289 Broadway, New York, NY 10024
212-362-8835

Branding the Man To Be Featured on CBS 5(KPIX) “Bay Sunday”

October 14, 2009

CBS 5 Bay Sunday

Community affairs programming has mostly gone the way of the Dodo, but there are some television stations that continue to commit airtime and resources to producing good local shows. San Francisco’s CBS affiliate KPIX offers “Bay Sunday,”  a program hosted by Sue Kwon, and featuring a compelling mix of in-studio interviews on social issues, the arts, and current events. Watch the show this Sunday, October 18th at 5:30AM when Kwon interviews author Bertrand Pellegrin about why men are becoming increasingly aware of the power of fashion. I know — who on earth watches television at that hour on a Sunday — besides cab drivers, nurses, or insomniacs? Watch it now. Click here.