Branding the man: why men are the next frontier in fashion retail

The Academy Awards are an altogether different opportunity for reaching a critical audience of consumers. Where the Superbowl targets men with ads about beer, cars, tech toys, and snack foods, the Oscars aims squarely towards that potent demographic of young, 25 – 35 year old women who have their sights set on emulating the golden glamour of the movie stars who parade before them.

You would have almost thought that last night’s presentation was sponsored by J.C. Penney. Yes, J.C. Penney, that dusty old brand which has struggled in recent years under the burden of bankruptcies and the changing tastes of American consumers who moved away from Sears, Mervyns (RIP),and Penneys in favor of Target  — especially when it comes to fashion.

But judging from last night’s show, J.C. Penney could very well have scored it’s own award in reigniting interest in the brand. In commercial spots throughout the program, Penney’s showed off a new logo that emphasizes “jcp” over “Penney’s” (which is what those of us from a certain era called it) and a new tagline, “New look. New day. Who new!”

After watching seven of the 30-second spots (created by Saatchi&Saatchi), there was no doubting any of that. Hit people over the head enough times and something’s gotta stick, especially if you sat through all three hours of it. An estimated 42 million viewers did, although Nielsen ratings suggest that not everyone was paying attention, with a 7% drop over last year’s show.

Spots highlighted the brand’s stable of labels, from MNG by Mango to Liz Claiborne to Cindy Crawford. The ads were slick and knowing, featuring crisp urban settings and young fashionistas who proudly showed off their Penney’s finds. Fashion blogger Geri Hirsch (www.becauseimaddicted.net) was enlisted by the brand to bring credibility with a spot that has her making a testimonial to the brand’s new relevance to people like her.

J.C. Penneys more than likely was banking on the hopes that the program’s young hosts, James Franco and Anne Hathaway, would keep the 18 to 49 year old target demographic tuned in.

A 30-second spot during the Oscars telecast was estimated at $1.7 million. One can only hope that Penneys new slogan, “We make it affordable. You make it yours” pays off in no small way.

---

The Academy Awards are an altogether different opportunity for reaching a critical audience of consumers. Where the Superbowl targets men with ads about beer, cars, tech toys, and snack foods, the Oscars aims squarely towards that potent demographic of young, 25 – 35 year old women who have their sights set on emulating the golden glamour of the movie stars who parade before them. You would have almost thought that last night’s presentation was sponsored by J.C. Penney. Yes, J.C. Penney, that dusty old brand which has struggled in recent years under the burden of bankruptcies and the changing tastes of American consumers who moved away from Sears, Mervyns (RIP), and Penneys in favor of Target  — especially when it comes to fashion.

But judging from last night’s Oscars show, J.C. Penney could very well have scored it’s own award in reigniting interest in the brand. With a new logo that emphasizes “jcp” over “Penney’s” (which is what those of us from a certain era called it) the company rolled out an array of commercials that proved they stood behind their new tagline, “New look. New day. Who new!” After watching seven of the 30-second spots (created by Saatchi&Saatchi), there was no doubting any of that. Hit people over the head enough times and something’s gotta stick, especially if you sat through all three hours of it. An estimated 42 million viewers did, although Nielsen ratings suggest that not everyone was paying attention, with a 7% drop over last year’s show.

Spots highlighted the brand’s stable of labels, from MNG by Mango to Liz Claiborne to Cindy Crawford. The ads were slick and knowing, featuring crisp urban settings and young fashionistas who proudly showed off their Penney’s finds. Fashion blogger Geri Hirsch (www.becauseimaddicted.net) was enlisted by the brand to bring credibility with a spot that has her making a testimonial to the brand’s new relevance to people like her. J.C. Penneys more than likely was banking on the hopes that the program’s young hosts, James Franco and Anne Hathaway, would keep the 18 to 49 year old target demographic tuned in. A 30-second spot during the Oscars telecast was estimated at $1.7 million. One can only hope that Penneys new slogan, “We make it affordable. You make it yours” pays off in no small way.

---

It’s been only a few short weeks since we moved into our new digs in San Francisco’s historic Flood Building and already we feel the pulse of American retail in 2011.

Built in 1904 (and one of the only buildings to survive the ’06 earthquake), the Flood Building is a marvelous testament to the titans of industry, when molten steel was as symbolic of strength as it was of permanence. One can not only imagine the crisp tap of Dashiell Hammett’s shoes in the marble halls, but of Sam Spade himself.

More than likely he got his Vitamin V from John’s Grill, which still makes a decent martini (but it could be better.)

Seven floors below is the Gap flagship store, which seems to be experimenting with a pop up shop devoted to… bicycles. You’d never really know it though because the space they gave to Public — that’s the bike company created by Design Within Reach founder Rob Forbes — is in a back corner of the second floor. I’m still trying to figure out how the Gap decided to give such valuable real estate to Public for nothing (or at least, that’s what the sales person told me.)

Market and Powell is colorful, to say the least. Tourists wait for cable cars while “talented” street musicians march to a different drummer — thanks to some old buckets and pans.

Where French Connection used to be, a new store from Spain has opened called Desigual. Get it?

That’s OK I didn’t either. So far most people seem to be going there for the free shopping bags they’re handing out, which manage to get everyone thinking that people are actually shopping there.

After closing their mammoth flagship store on Union Square, Disney opened a modest little space where Bennetton used to be. But it seems like kids these days are more interested in going to the Apple store, only a few yards away. At almost any hour of the day the store is a hive of activity, although I’m not clear what people are doing there that they can’t do at home. Which is probably why so many of our clients continue to mention it when they describe their retail prototype (note to clients: innovate — don’t regurgitate.)

Meanwhile the buzz downtown is about Target opening a store in the former Metreon. That’ll make downtown traffic all the more interesting.

Out on the Square, Dior continues to maintain squatting rights on their old flagship space which features a sign stating: “DIOR HOMME – Coming Soon.” That was over a year ago, so I’m not sure how soon is soon.

Around the corner though is slightly-overwrought All Saints Spitalfields store, which features several hundred sewing machines filling it’s giant windows on Geary Boulevard. Inside, it’s half Dickensian sweatshop, half-slaughterhouse. Who knew the two could be so chic?

The custom lighting and fixtures appear to have come directly from the Cabinet of Dr. Caligari. The All Saints look has evolved over the past few years into a kind of “slum-chic”: all worker boots, distressed khaki and black woolens, mittens, and stuff that looks like it got left out in the rain. It’s pure “Oliver Twist.”

A few yards down from All Saints is Downtown, which strangely features black tinted windows that make it impossible to see in. I’m always mesmerized by brands that make a mess of their most valuable real estate — their windows. But the store is lovely inside, again, favoring the dark and subdued atmosphere that will remind you again that you need glasses. In one corner hang two Balenciaga jackets. In another hang a collection of furs and leathers, or complicated little jewelry pieces in a steel case. It’s all very beautiful but oddly, you don’t feel like buying.

On the other side of the street is Emporio Armani, which has set up temporary shop while they do a massive remodel to their permanent space on Grant and O’Farrell. The company had famously plunked a caf in the middle of the store, which, while very cool, was an obvious money-drain and complete waste of retail space. Vaguely Euro types would park themselves there and sip on Pellegrino.

We haven’t found our satellite office yet for the days when it’s too warm to stay in the office, but come 5 o’clock you might find us at the slightly seedy Gold Dust Lounge, a place that Herb Caen called, “the last of the authentic nightcapperies.” We’ll drink to that.

---